Sunday 21 December 2014
Gun Larson

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»There’s nothing lethal or even explosive about this Gun. She’s a sweetish, Swedish young woman with an abundance of modesty that completely belies her overabundance of talent.«

It’s 1975 when Herb Lubalin writes this in Ms – not the feminist magazine with the same name, started in 1972, but U&lc magazine’s single page devoted to talented women and their portfolios.

In 1963, a few years before Lubalin’s panegyric in U&lc, Gun Larson was freshly graduated from Beckmans College of Design in Stockholm and working at Svea advertising agency. She was thinking about continuing her studies in Switzerland or maybe moving to America. When she learned that a photographer friend was moving to New York, Gun made her decision and went with her. After a week of flat-sharing with three other girls (one of them a snoring Miss International Beauty – »that week couldn’t end fast«), Gun got her first job at the agency that topped her wish-list. She was to stay there for many years.

We visit Gun one hazy November day at her home in Limhamn where she lives in a self-proclaimed »lifestyle« building: apartments where quality-of-life according to a website »is built into the walls«. We meet down in the hotel-like foyer with its reception area and indoor pond, and view the communal rooms with their pool table, movie theater, and bar. Up on her landing there is an enamel sign with Gun’s flourishing logo printed.

The apartment is full of mementos. Many of the objects are letters made from different materials, in different sizes. On a table lie type blocks in wood and small sheets of stone from when Gun tried stone carving, on the sofa there’s a cushion in the shape of a pug dog and on the shelves, in front of the books, small boxes and packages covered in beautiful typography. On one wall hang calligraphic pieces of art by Gun’s teacher Karl-Erik Forsberg and on another hangs a framed correspondence, handwritten by an American colleague. By the windows looking out over the Öresund bridge to Copenhagen and a limestone quarry is Gun’s desk. It’s immediately clear that it’s still used. Eight bookshelves in the living room run from floor till ceiling, tight with books. It takes a moment before we realize that it’s Gun’s archive. We haven’t found as many of Gun’s work as we wished online, but there are hundreds of books here – and she’s done the calligraphy for them all.

Gun5The Library of America Series, jacket art dir. R.D.Scudellari, calligraphy, G.L., bookdesign Bruce Campbell. 1982–. The publisher Gun still works for, with 1–4 calligraphy titles/year. So far there are ca 250 titles.

Gun3Gun7

Did you start working with books as soon as you arrived in New York?
No, I started as a packaging designer at Raymond Loewy/William Snaith Inc, that was the biggest and best bureau at the time. They’d done everything, big and small, from Studebaker to Lucky Strike.

How did you make the move to books?
I was free-lancing since a couple of years, and in -69, I decided to call the Random House promotion department in my jobhunting. Somehow I rang the wrong number, and got through to the secretary of the head of bookdesign, R.D. Scudellari. She said: »Since you’ve called, why don’t you come up?« I showed my portfolio, and he asked: »Would you like to do our classical lettering?« Yes, I would. That’s how I started on a free-lance basis for Alfred A. Knopf, part of Random House.

That was lucky.
It was, and through working for them I got lots of other jobs, because if you worked for Knopf, everyone wanted you.

How did you learn the craft of calligraphy?
It had been a big interest of mine since school when I’d had Karl-Erik Forsberg as my teacher. But no one believed you could make a living out of it. Packaging was what you could make a living out of, or so we thought at the time.

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_MG_3705_svBaryshnikov at work, art director, R.D. Scudellari, calligraphy, G.L. 1976

What’s this amazing dance book?
That book is probably the one I’ve had most attention for; it won a lot of good prizes. There were 32 chapter headings in the book and I only had a few months to do them. I worked like crazy to get them finished.

It looks very exclusive.
This is just one of four copies with the cover embossed with gold leaf. I got one, so did the editor in chief, Robert Gottlieb, the art director, R.D. Scudellari and Baryshnikov himself. This version was expensive, so the standard edition has only blind embossing and jacket. In the ’70s they didn’t spare the expense. But the money’s not there any more, not even in America.

There’s just something about dance and calligraphy, they’re made for each other.
Can you tell us more about this book about the Old West?
This de luxe edition of 450 was an official gift to presidents and heads of state and the standard edition was sold in the bookstores.

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_MG_3713The Art of the Old West, 1971, art director, R.D. Scudellari, calligraphy, G.L. Inside the book we find an accompanying letter to Gun from the publisher: »I’m sure you will value it more than the politicians, and for that I’m grateful.«

So, does that mean Obama has one?
I don’t know if they still do it, but I have a picture of »Lady Bird« Johnson with one.

How did you come up with this particular style of lettering?
To be honest, it’s got nothing to do with the Art of the Old West; it was just a style that I and the art director came up with. It looked beautiful in combination with the pictures and the rest of the text. But it was interesting to see that, after this book, everybody who was making a book about the Old West wanted this style of lettering.

So you created a reference-style for an entire genre.
Yes, it’s crazy really.

Does the working process take a long time?
You have to make a lot of variants before you get it right, both the appearance and the spacing. Like in this timeline from St Mary’s church in Helsingborg where I did the period from -85. It was really big, two meters by one meter. I’d made a plan on a one-to-one scale, but I did the original directly onto the surface. That’s when you really have to take care.

Sounds nerve racking! Did anything go wrong?
No, it went well. Another time I was going to make an inscription for a book that the Exxon chairman of the board was getting as a retirement gift, The Audubon Birds of America, faximil in folio size. I got to borrow a Swedish artist’s studio because she had a stand to put the big, specially-made paper on, that was to be sent to Japan to be mounted in the book. It was really cold there and the radiator suddenly stopped working. I struggled on, but my hands got so numb. In the end I just had to leave. The next day I came back and did the last letters but with gloves on.

And did you get it to look the same?
Yes, it worked.

Do you sometimes stick together different parts that worked well to make an original, or does it have to be made in one go?
It might have happened, when the work needed to be ready for reproduction the following morning, but it’s not ideal.

Do you get assignments in calligraphy that need to be ready the following day?
No, but it could happen that there were lots of originals to be done at the same time. Sometimes I was doing ten percent of all the books at A.A Knopf, and then there was lots to do.

Looking at your work it looks easy, easy and elegant.
It has to. Otherwise there’s something wrong.

Your hands haven’t started trembling as you have aged?
No, and I hope it stays that way so I can keep on working.

It feels like a craft you have to think very farsightedly about. How long did it take before you felt you’d mastered it?
Every time you have an assignment you have to work hard, and practice, and think »this is so ugly«, and throw it away and throw it away again . . . and suddenly, something happens.

Do you keep your hands busy between assignments too?
Now that I don’t do as many jobs a year, I have to practice more before it sits right. But it makes me happy every time I get a challenging job and can start again. I’m not like a good pianist who always sits and practices. I need a deadline to be able to work.

Gun8

You do diplomas. Is this a normal field for calligraphers to be employed in, producing this kind of unique document?
Not any more. Institutions can do it themselves, find some typefaces on the computer and it’s done, unfortunately. It’s only the expensive ones that are still done by hand. The Nobel Prize for example, thank goodness. I do the documents for The Birgit Nilsson Prize since 2009, (on vellum) The Lund Student Singer’s Soloist Prize, since 2006, and Diamantbollen, the Prize for the best Swedish Female Soccer player, since 2001.

You’ve designed wine labels too?
Yes, I designed 8 labels for V&S, the Swedish Wine & Spirit Corp. during the 80’s, of those only »El Molino« can still be found on the shelves in stores.

There seem to be quite a few women in calligraphy. Why do you think that is?
Earlier there were more men than women, Karl-Erik Forsberg and his predecessors, but that’s changed. It doesn’t pay well enough for men anymore.

How do you see the future of calligraphy?
I’m scared that it’s dying out. I think it can recover, but there’s a risk then that there aren’t many left who can teach it anymore. In 2001 I produced an exhibition »Kalligrafi, 17 svenska kalligrafer«, together with Reklam & Designhistoriska föreningen (Advertising & Designhistoric association), because we wanted to show the importance of calligraphy in Scandinavia.

What advantages are there for a graphic designer in mastering calligraphy?
I think that it’s always an advantage, you get an understanding for the basics of the craft. There’s also been research to show that something happens in the brain when you when you use italic handwriting instead of computer, taking notes. You get connections between the hand and the brain and you remember more easily what you have heard in a lecture, for example. That shows it’s really important in itself.

Do you have anything to say to someone wanting to pursue calligraphy?
Working with calligraphy is really enjoyable and rewarding, I recommend it. I am thrilled every time I get a new, challenging assignment.

_MG_3722Freelance work for Pierre Robert, 1970’s »This was the ‘in’ color at the time«.

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More of Gun Larson’s work can be found here.
All photos by Lisa Sigebrand.

Posted by: 14:59

Categories: Calligraphy, Typografi, Typography, Uncategorized

Wednesday 10 December 2014
The Nobel Diplomas

Bertha Svensson Piehl (1892–1962), Kerstin Anckers ( 1931–2012), Susan Duvnäs and Annika Rücker are all calligraphers who have done many of the diplomas hanging on the walls of Nobel Prize winners around the globe. The prestigious prizes’  diplomas are still being hand made by calligraphers. Annika Rücker is creating this year’s diplomas for Physics, Chemistry, Literature and Economic Sciences. Starting tomorrow, an exhibition with printed copies of this year’s diplomas will be exhibited at Nobelmuseum in Stockholm. Read more about the diplomas here.

anckersKerstin Anckers. Photo: Herbert Lindgren, Stockholm Stadsmuseum

anckers.neruda-diplomaDiploma, 1971. Art by Gunnar Brusewitz, calligraphy by Kerstin Anckers.

anckers.beckett-diplomaDiploma, 1969. Artist: Gunnar Brusewitz, calligraphy: Kerstin Anckers.

macdiarmid-diplomaDiploma, 2000. Artist: Nils G Stenqvist, calligraphy: Annika Rücker.

nobeldiplometDiploma, 1931. Art and calligraphy: Bertha Svensson Piehl.

 

 

Posted by: 07:10

Categories: Calligraphy, Kerstin Anckers, Typografi, Typography, Uncategorized

Tuesday 2 December 2014
All you want for Christmas is this

Do you want to buy Hall of Femmes’s books in time for Christmas? Here’s the complete list of book shopping online.

Draw Down
Amazon (just before the Femmes Fatale and Femmes Savantes titles)
Bokus
Adlibris
Konst-ig Books

And of course our own little shop.

Bokserie

Posted by: 08:23

Categories: Uncategorized

Wednesday 26 November 2014
Invite us to your place!

Why are there so few women in design history? Does it really matter to anyone if a designer is a woman or a man? Does magic really happen when women designers from a younger generation meet senior women designers? How is knowledge passed on to the next generations? How do you know you’re starstruck? Why would someone spend all their money on making books? What year will the design industry be equal?*

In short: Do you want us to come to your office or school or homeparty to talk about Hall of Femmes? Send us an inquiry at info@halloffemmes.com

CM

Breakfast presentation at Creative Mornings Stockholm earlier this year. Photo by Richard Ortega, see more photos here.

*Sorry, we can’t answer that question. It’s up to you.

Posted by: 23:40

Categories: Uncategorized

Thursday 23 October 2014
L’hommage: Paula Scher > Rosmarie Tissi

We can’t wait until November 12, when Swiss graphic designer Rosmarie Tissi will join us for a design talk at ArkDes in Stockholm. From the Hall of Femmes circle, we asked Paula Scher to tell us more about her admiration for her colleague and friend.

type-directors-club-identity-paula-scher-L-qtbg7r

When did you discover Rosmarie Tissi’s design? What impression did it make on you?
I saw Rosmarie’s work in various publications and annuals in the early and mid-80’s, probably in the magazine Graphis. I remember seeing an article on Odermatt &  Tissi, and was surprised to find out that Tissi was a woman. I loved it and thought it was very contemporary.  I always assumed that everything was designed by men, because in the publications and annuals of that time, it usually was.

Tell us about your first meeting with Rosmarie?
It must have been in Mexico, probably either on a jury of a show, or at a group poster show. She actually liked to travel without Siggi (Odermatt), her by then long time partner. She used to go on extensive vacations by herself, after working all year with him. She didn’t mind traveling alone – I did, but got over it. I remember admiring her independence.

We also were together for a large group poster in exhibit in Teheran in the 90’s, both very upset about having to wear the stupid scarf over our heads every day. It was surprising how much that affected us. I cried the first morning that I had to put it on, and Rosemarie had the same reaction. Some of it was vanity and some of it was rage.

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What has your friendship with Rosmarie meant to you as a designer?
Rosmarie was my first female, European design friend. I sometimes saw her at  AGI (Alliance Graphic Internationale) where there were very few women members – more so now, but still, not enough. I was inspired by her work because of its modernity, its beauty and precision, but was also inspired by her as a person.

I admired her confidence and independence. She was opinionated about work, and savvy about the design community. I learned that Swiss poster designers are very competitive and not very nice about it, but I remember that she helped younger designers receive recognition.

She also had a clear handle on old boys clubs. When she traveled to conferences and exhibitions, she was often the sole woman among a powerful group of male designers, who considered themselves peers and would even exclude her from the group.  She never let it undermine her. She had a strong belief in her own talent and accomplishments, and viewed the work of some of the men for what it was.

Foto affischer

What part of Tissi’s work do you find most relevant today?
I suspect Rosmarie is about to have a whole new wave of popularity. Her work still looks incredibly fresh and modern. The color, scale, proportion, use of imagery is impeccable. I also like her type design, she designed three faces that are pretty cool. Her posters are dynamic, powerful and gorgeous. She’s classic.

Do you have anything to say to those who are not familiar with her work?
Google her.

Apart from checking out Rosmarie Tissi on the Internet – meet her at the Kolla! talk at ArkDes on November 12, during Kolla! Design Awards. Tickets available here

Read more about Paula Scher, a fellow classic, in the Hall of Femmes book on her work. Stay tuned for more praise and inspiration, from one creative to another, under the tagline L’Hommage

 

Posted by: 10:56

Categories: L'Hommage, Paula Scher, Rosemarie Tissi

Sunday 28 September 2014
Meeting Ruth Ansel

Ladies and gentlemen, we proudly present Ruth Ansel, a woman who’s always been at the right place at the right time. Back in the 60’s, when she was just 24, she and Bea Feitler became co-art directors of Harper’s Bazaar. In the 70’s, Ruth was the art director of The New York Times Magazine, in the 80’s, Vanity Fair. Each time, she was the first woman in that position. In recent years, she’s run her own studio – Ruth Ansel Design – designing books like the much-talked about, 20-inch tall monograph on the photographer and artist Peter Beard. Today, Ruth is 70 years old and still working.

Ruth is Grand. Everyone we’ve met has spoken about her with the utmost respect. Ruth is the one we’ve dreamed most about meeting though we hardly dared to think it would ever happen. She’s been known to publish fake e-mail addresses online with the sole purpose of making it harder for people to reach her. A few months ago, we called her up. It was a brief conversation, ending shortly after Ruth sternly told us that she would »look us up«. Several nervous weeks later, we received an e-mail from Ruth in which she praised our work. Throughout our entire career, nothing has been as important as that e-mail. We felt like a door had opened, that we had received an invitation to an important society. Is this what it feels like to be in the »in« crowd?

Ruth Ansel lives in a posh apartment building on Manhattan’s Upper West Side. In her courtyard a film crew is set to shoot a Disney film starring Nicolas Cage. On our way up to the tenth floor, the elevator man asks us if we’re aware that Cyndi Lauper lives in the house. »You know that song ’Girls Just Wanna Have Fun’?« But we’re focused on a different lady.

Ruth Ansel welcomes us into her large apartment, only to disappear into the kitchen. She’s wearing black clothes, Mary Janes, a big orange watch and a turquoise ring. In the kitchen, she’s arranged a lunch buffet of delicious treats; croissants, smoked fish spread, tasty cheeses and small apples. We fill up our plates and ask if she’s interested in food. »Unfortunately«, she replies, not helping herself to lunch. Above the refrigerator there’s a blackboard in the shape of a cat. On it, Ruth has scribbled a Diana Vreeland quote : »Elegance is refusal.« It’s supposed to keep her from sneaking things out of the fridge.

In 1963, when Ruth Ansel and Bea Feitler were appointed co-art directors of Harper’s Bazaar, the leading fashion magazine of its time, they were met with blatant skepticism by a male-dominated media world. Could two twenty-something females really shoulder such an important role? However, it didn’t take long before the duo had modernized the magazine by infusing it with elements of pop art, street fashion, rock and roll music and film. They chose photographers whose work changed fashion photography forever. Furthermore, the graphic design of Ansel and Feitler set a new standard in magazine design, an updated take on Brodovitch’s revolutionary designs from the 40’s and 50’s.

Ruth Ansel ended up in the magazine world by accident. She was born in the Bronx in the late 1930s. Her father was in the china import business and her mom ran a small lingerie shop. From childhood, Ruth took a great interest in art and movies. Along with her classmate Nina Castelli, daughter of Leo Castelli and Ileana Sonnabend , central figures in the New York art world, she spent a summer in East Hampton at age 15. There, she saw the artist William De Kooning paint his »Woman« series in the downstairs guest bedroom where he was living at the time. Jackson Pollock and Larry Rivers often came by for dinner. Together with the Castelli-Sonnabend family, Ruth went to see her first Balanchine ballet performance as well as Robert Rauschenberg and Picasso exhibitions. It was then her love for art took root.

She graduated from Alfred University earning a Bachelor of Fine Arts Degree majoring in ceramic design but soon realized her career opportunities were limited. After a brief marriage, she escaped to Europe to mend her heart and look for adventure. Her plan was to look for work in different countries and eventually end up in Rome. But after eight months of travel she ran out of money and knew it was time to head home. She felt that, as a young woman, she was never taken seriously in her pursuit of a graphic design career. 

Ruth shows us into the living room. The sun shines in through an open window. On the walls there are pictures we’ve seen in books, like Richard Avedon’s famous Andy Warhol Factory triptych and his portrait of Stravinsky. Some are signed with personal notes to Ruth. Her white Mac is standing on a desk that stretches along a wall. Every now and then, we hear a little »pling« announcing she’s got mail. Ruth asks us to sit down on the large couch, and adds that it’s quite uncomfortable, so we should help ourselves to plush pillows to put behind our backs.

Large bookshelves hold yard upon yard of bookmarked books and magazines. We would love to browse through them all. One of the lower shelves carries all the magazine issues on which Ruth has ever worked. They’re collected in heavy bound volumes. She tells us that she has one copy of each magazine except for the Harper’s Bazaar 1965 April issue – with the legendary cover where model Jean Shrimpton wears a large pink helmet and blinks with one eye if you tilt the magazine.

– Samira Bouabana, Angela Tillman Sperandio, 2010

Preface: Hall of Femmes: Ruth Ansel, 2010
Editor: Ika Johannesson

Buy the book here. Buy the poster here.

Left: Model Jean Shrimpton on the famous cover of Harper's Bazaar April 1965, with the winking eye. Art direction: Ruth Ansel and Bea Feitler. Photo: Richard Avedon. © 2010 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Right: Harper’s Bazaar fold-down cover, August 1966. Art direction: Ruth Ansel and Bea Feitler. Photo: James Moore.

Left: Model Jean Shrimpton on the famous cover of Harper’s Bazaar April 1965, with the winking eye. Art direction: Ruth Ansel and Bea Feitler. Photo: Richard Avedon. © 2010 The Richard Avedon Foundation. Right: Harper’s Bazaar fold-down cover, August 1966. Art direction: Ruth Ansel and Bea Feitler. Photo: James Moore.

Posted by: 16:09

Tags: , , , , , ,

Categories: Ika Johannesson, Preface, Richard Avedon, Ruth Ansel, Yolanda Cuomo

Saturday 27 September 2014
Meeting Janet Froelich

Sometimes a good question is more important than a good answer. While everybody can have an answer, questions make you pause and reflect. Janet Froelich’s questions make us doubt and they make us think. They make us smarter and more creative. Her thoughtful, »Could it be…? « tends to trigger a chain of thought that in turn leads to new and interesting queries.

Janet Froelich is one of few American women we’ve met to without hesitation call herself a feminist. »It’s not something I think a whole lot about, it’s part of who I am and how I see the world.« In fact, she began her successful career at a feminist publication, Heresies, when she – after 10 years as an abstract painter – swapped solitary hours in the studio for all-nighters and collective discussions about photos and headlines. At the time, in the 1970s, art direction was not a high status profession. She says they called it commercial art and in the world of fine arts, from which she came, that was perhaps the least well-regarded thing there was. »I mean it’s not like it’s art«, Janet might say of her work.

We meet for the first time in 2009, at a fancy hotel on Union Square where we are supposed to have breakfast together. The music is loud and our waiter tells us it is impossible to lower it, right before he pours coffee into a cup full of tea. Janet is polite but strict when she draws his attention to his mistake and asks for a new cup. In one fell swoop she demonstrates her abilities as a leader in her way of deftly taking charge of the situation. We’re impressed. To us, Janet Froelich is the epitome of a professional woman in New York. Elegant, cool, friendly and appropriate.

Ever since she was a girl, Janet Froelich has had a powerful drive, a competitive spirit and a will to always do better. She says she doesn’t know where it comes from, but over the course of our conversation she draws parallels between athletics and the professional world and says that everybody should be involved in sports at some point in their life. That is where you hone your competitive instinct, set clear goals and learn to lose. The latter is something she thinks women are often less good at. In part due to the fact that it was more common for boys than girls to grow up with sports, at least in her generation.

Over that breakfast, she tells of a fresh start in her career. She is beginning a new job that week; after 22 years as art director and creative director at The New York Times Magazine and T Style, she is moving to Real Simple, a lifestyle publication for working women. She is full of anticipation and yet again, we are impressed.

Janet Froelich was born in Brooklyn and raised in the suburbs of New York. She studied fine art at Cooper Union and later pursued a M.F.A. at Yale. It wasn’t until she came into contact with and worked for Heresies that she found her calling in graphic design. With bare-bones qualifications she got a job at the Daily News Magazine, which in time lead her to the position of art director at The New York Times Magazine, and later The New York Times Style Magazine .

The New York Times magazines have won countless prizes under her leadership. Her style is visually strong and extremely catchy, but always intelligent and elegant. Janet tells us that the big difference between The Times magazines and Real Simple is that while the first is a supplement in a newspaper, the latter is sold on the newsstand, which has presented a big challenge. It seems paradoxical to us that The Times Magazine would be a publication not intended for the newsstand, since we feel we would be drawn like magnets to each and every cover if we saw it on the shelf. The endless variations on the T in T Magazine, by various creators is genius and brings out the collectors in us.

Our meeting with Janet Froelich planted a seed. Once back in Sweden we don’t quite know what to do with our project, but Janet’s interest and questions have made us confident that this is important. We are egged on by her urging that something concrete must come of our informal meetings with nine of the world’s foremost (female) designers in New York.

Another idea that takes root is Janet’s thoughts on women and athletics. When we get home we start working our bodies, spending more time at soccer fields, boxing rings and gyms. It turns out to be surprisingly easy to compete with men in the only realm in which there are biological differences in the basic conditions for success. When we take on the men at local gyms doing push-ups, we feel that competing on equal ground in design should be easy.

– Samira Bouabana, Angela Tillman Sperandio, 2013

Preface: Hall of Femmes: Janet Froelich, 2013
Editor: Sarah Clyne Sundberg

Buy the book here.
Buy the poster here.

Posted by: 06:33

Tags: , , , ,

Categories: Janet Froelich, Preface, Sarah Clyne Sundberg

Friday 26 September 2014
Meeting Lillian Bassman

»I think you’ll fall in love with Lillian.« This is how Stephen, Lillian Bassman’s assistant, begins a letter to us before our meeting in New York. As it turns out, he’s right. To meet Lillian Bassman is to fall in love and we’re hardly the first ones. In every book and interview we’ve read, it’s obvious that Lillian is irresistible.

We visit Ms. Bassman in her combined home and studio on the Upper East Side. The building is a former carriage house and a black-and-white stone pattern covers up a hole in the floor. We learn that this is where they used to drop down hay to the horses in the old days. Now her son Eric lives on the ground floor, where Lillian and her husband Paul Himmel, who passed away in 2009, used to share a workspace. When we arrive she’s wearing a light blue man’s shirt with her bare feet up on a stool watching a World Cup match, England versus Algeria. Following a brief illness she now needs extra oxygen delivered through her nose via a plastic tube. In spite of the tube Lillian looks cool. It’s summer and her daughter Lizzie offers us iced coffee. We’re afraid that the noise from the fan will drown out the sound on our recording.

Over the past few years there has been a Lillian Bassman revival of sorts, and several books and photo exhibitions of her work have popped up around the world. She began photographing in the late 1940s, and for two decades her work appeared in almost every issue of Harper’s Bazaar, as well as in countless advertisements for high end brands. Her pictures capture the postwar feminine ideal, with long necks, sweeping skirts and narrow waists. It’s said that Carmel Snow, the legendary editor at Harper’s Bazaar, admired Lillian’s ability to make even the simplest piece of clothing seem glamorous. The women in her pictures are inaccessible in a way that’s very sexy; and even though they’re obviously posing, you get the feeling that they don’t know they’re being watched. They ooze integrity.

In the beginning of the 1970s, however, Lillian abruptly lost interest in fashion photography and turned to more personal art projects. She destroyed many of her negatives, but some she boxed up and deposited in an old unheated coal shed behind the house. She continued to shoot commercially and spent two years designing her own fashion line. 30 years later, an artist renting the downstairs studio stumbled upon the boxes while clearing out the shed and Lillian began revisiting her old work. It could be that Lillian’s great success as a photographer casts a shadow over her brief, yet important role within graphic design. In this book we would like to draw attention to that period.

At the end of the 1940s, as the art director at two of the most influential magazines of all time, Harper’s Bazaar and Junior Bazaar, she has a unique insight into the golden age of American magazine culture. The post war era was defined by its belief in the future, an optimistic and experimental climate that never ceases to appeal to art directors. Perhaps that fascination has reached its pinnacle today. After all, we live in a time when aesthetically, we are looking backwards rather than forwards. For years Junior Bazaar was solely a subsection within Harper’s Bazaar, a space dedicated to more youthful style tips and fashion. But from 1945–1948 it was an independent magazine. If we had been teenagers in the 1940s we would have bought every single issue. These days they’re not only hard to find, but also very expensive. When we lament this to writer Vince Aletti, famous for his enormous collection of fashion magazines, he replies: »I know. I’m the one who’s buying them.«

Though Alexey Brodovitch, Lillian’s teacher and mentor, is usually credited as the sole creator of Junior Bazaar, in fact it was Lillian who designed the magazine. Her life story reads like a movie and stretches across the entire 20th century. And because both Lillian and her husband were photographers, there are thousands of pictures from their lives. She describes her childhood as very liberal with a hard-working father and an independent mother clearly, the apple doesn’t fall far from the tree. She tells us how she and her older sister used to run around naked in the house and sleep on mattresses directly on the floor.

Lillian was just five years old when she met her future husband, Paul when he tried to drown her at the beach on Coney Island. Ten years later they became a couple and moved in together, while Lillian was still in high school. To us, her parents, who were emigrés from Russia and the Ukraine, seem like »real hippies«. Lillian corrects us: »No, they were bohemians.« Later, when we refer to her work as »punk «, she does it again »It was avant garde«.

When we leave the free-minded Lillian we are in an almost euphoric state. We walk along Lexington Avenue and dream about being a fly on the wall at the Bassman’s. Suddenly, the world feels like an open playground, ours for the taking.

Samira Bouabana & Angela Tillman Sperandio, 2010

From Hall of Femmes: Lillian Bassman
Editor: Ika Johannesson

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Posted by: 21:00

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Categories: Ika Johannesson, Lillian Bassman, Preface

Thursday 25 September 2014
Meeting Carin Goldberg

To step into Carin Goldberg’s home in Brooklyn, in a classic brownstone neighborhood with tidily kept gardens, is to step into a small design museum. Her house, where she also has her studio, is full of books and objects, cordially arranged according to their colors, patternsand materials. It looks appetizing, full of layers that beg to be delved into. The first time we visit her she offers us tea and biscuits served on mint colored china . It’s our first interview for this project and we’re so nervous that we forget to introduce ourselves. Though if there’s anyone who will calm you down, just by her mere presence, it’s Carin Goldberg. She has a warm personality and a dry sense of humor. We have already engaged in small talk for quite a long time when she kindly asks us who we actually are. Could we perhaps tell her a bit more about our project? Studying Carin Goldberg’s career as a designer, is like taking a truly contemporary history class. It begins at a time when graphic design was artisanal when work was created by means of pen, paper, scissors and glue and leads to our computer dominated present. During her three decades of working in the field, there’s been a steady change of direction from print to more digital content. But in Carin’s opinion, the communicative role of the designer remains the same .

Carin, a born-and-raised New Yorker, quickly realized what the industry asked of her: to be »a cool, irreverent, experimental, hungry, talented smart-ass«. She was educated at Cooper Union in New York where she graduated in 1975 with a degree in fine arts. Her path as a designer then began at CBS Television where she worked for Lou Dorfsman, who was chief designer in charge of the company’s visual communication for over 40 year. After that she moved on to CBS Records Advertising , followed by a short period of working for Atlantic Records before going back to CBS to the Records Packaging Department.

In the early 1980s she established her own business, Carin Goldberg Design, where she continued to work for the music industry but also became, above all, one of America’s most successful book cover designers. She has designed over a thousand covers for Random House, Harper Collins and most major U.S. publishing houses. Perhaps she conveyed her zeal from the art world and the music industry to the more conventional literary world? In any case, she was quickly identified as one of the stars of a rising 1980s art movement, alongside graphic designers like Paula Scher and Louise Fili, that was celebrated for its eclecticism and humor. Carin has said it was simply a reaction to the aesthetic ideals of that time, »smacking tasteful type on a gorgeous photograph. We were bored with that and wanted to actually make stuff paint, cut, paste and play«. But what she didn’t know was that this movement would soon be labeled »postmodernism«. And that it would stick with her throughout most of her future professional undertakings, in spite of her own dislike for the term.

One example is the heated debate following Carin’s cover design for a new edition of James Joyce’s Ulysses. The publisher wanted something that resembled the 1949 edition, and so Carin made a pastiche of the modernist typography posters and built the design upon a large »U«. This upset the influential designer Tibor Kalman who accused Carin and her colleagues of being »pillagers«, and an aesthetic discussion within the design world began. One that still, in a way, goes on. Nevertheless, Carin kept cool. »While I was busy pillaging history, Tibor was busy pillaging the vernacular. We were all pillagers«, was her riposte.

For Carin, all this belongs in the past. Along with the fact that she designed the cover for Madonna’s debut album one of the most, especially from our generation’s viewpoint, iconic artists ever (so we keep asking her until she agrees to talk about it). She prefers to look ahead, not back, emphasizing her desire to move forward. In recent years she has, for instance, expanded her work to include publicationdesign and brand consultancy.

The second time we see her it’s been a year and a lot has happened. Carin has been awarded the Gold Medal by the American Institute of Graphic Art (AIGA ), for »sustained contributions to design excellenceand the development of the profession«. She has also received the Art Director Club’s Grand Masters Award, for those whose careers in creative education have impacted upon and inspired generations of student creatives. As if that weren’t enough, she’s working hard on her retrospective, which opens at the Centredu Graphismein Échirolles, France, in November 2010. »I’ve hit my prime«, she says smiling, in what we perceive to be an ironic tone. And it seems only right that, for someone with such a long career, the awards are great in terms of acknowledgement and yes, lovely to glance at from time to time but they are perhaps not the drivingforce. This seems especially the case for Carin Goldberg, who appearsto have a distinct and very holistic approach to success at work, in life, and everywhere in between.

Talking to her is almost like having therapy. Design therapy. She believes that it’s the designer’s responsibility to come up with solutions, and her own ability to do so is palpable. She has an aptitude for educating and since the 1980s she has taught at The School of Visual Arts in New York, where her classes are filled with diligent students. And as Carin facetiously remarks, it’s yet another opportunity to be »arrogant, emphatic, brilliant, bossy, nurturing, thoughtful, smart, and silly«. As we sit in this decorative home full of books, pictures and flea market finds, we realize that it says a great deal about graphic design, the ability to observe, make a selection, disentangle, and place everything in context thus making the viewer look at something differently. And above all, it says a lot about Carin Goldberg. The epitome of an experimental yet disciplinary aesthete, who truly lives for, and with, her profession.

Preface Hall of Femmes: Carin Goldberg, 2011
Editor: Maina Arvas
Buy the book here.
Buy the poster here

Posted by: 12:40

Categories: Books, Carin Goldberg, Maina Arvas, Preface

Tuesday 23 September 2014
Meeting Paula Scher

As designer Paula Scher enters the room, we see that how she
describes herself fits: »Short, with a big personality.« Even the
dog she’s brought along is big. We stare at the dog and then make
ourselves guilty of one of our stupidest interview openings yet.
Us: »Hello. We met Carin Goldberg yesterday. (Pause.)
She has a dog too.«
Paula Scher: »Oh really? She’s a friend of mine, we’re the dog-ladies.«
Us (gravely): »Okay.«

It’s the first time we’ve met Paula – in real life, that is. We’ve spent
quite some time with her already, in our office; we’ve read her book,
once, twice, three times. We’ve quoted it. We’ve taken her truths
to heart, and used them when talking to clients, pretending they’re
ours. But now everything feels different. We’re at her workplace,
Pentagram, in New York, one of the world’s most renowned design
agencies. We’ve taken pictures of ourselves at the entrance, posing
under their big red banner. We’ve waited in the conference room for
half an hour, nervously poking around Pentagram’s book shelves,
and unwinding a little leafing through the magazines. Suddenly she’s
standing there: a small woman and a big design star. With a big dog.

Paula Scher began her career in the record business in the 1970s.
After the interview we take out a record we’ve brought, the Yardbirds
from 1977, and ask if she could sign the sleeve. Paula is overjoyed, as
she has no examples of her own (during her years with CBS Records
she designed over 150 records a year), and is pleased to discover
that the record is »… really well designed and hasn’t aged a bit«. She
wonders if she can buy it, or exchange it for something. We give it to
her, and get a proof copy of the same sleeve in return.

It was at CBS Records – in this hierarchical organization – that Paula’s
interest in power structures and workplace psychology began, an
interest we return to during the conversation. To analyze the social
game between customer and designer she wrote her own book,
Make it Bigger (Princeton Architectural Press, 2002), in which she
punctures the myth that design is something created in ivory towers.
Design, according to Paula Scher, is about people.
A year later, we hear by chance that Paula Scher is lecturing at a
design seminar in Norway. We ask to meet her there for a follow up
interview and, despite the sudden eruption of the Icelandic volcano

Eyjafjallajökull clouding half of Scandinavia, all three of us make it.
We meet in the not yet open bar of her hotel. It must look better in
the evening; the daylight is merciless. In decor of varying flesh-tones
and pile-covered sofas, we welcome a design queen.
The interview feels more relaxed than last time. Paula talks about
growing up in a suburb outside Washington DC with a cartographer
dad and a teacher mum. The structure of how you were supposed to
look and behave was rigid; she felt suffocated by the suburban ideal,
and criticized for who she was. She responded by rebelling, and we
think that she still burns with a desire to be contrary.

Later in the evening we meet Paula in the bar again, where she and
the other speakers from the seminar have got together for a drink.
The positive feeling from earlier in the day disappears immediately as
we fall back into usual social patterns. We get shy and embarrassed,
creep silently in and take a table some distance away. The young
men in the group, on the other hand, make a grand entrance: greet
everyone cheerfully, say what they’re called, what they do. They have
styled glasses, are charming and self-assured. We’re stiff and acting
like idiots.

But even so, when one of the guys leaves Paula’s table, we take our
chance and quickly sit there. She says hello with a hug and a kiss.
Later she asks nicely to borrow a pen and writes in red ink on a napkin
the names of those women she thinks should be added to our list
for the Hall of Femmes book series. The napkin is immediately worth
a million.

At the table a discussion rages on about money and the future of
design. Paula is confrontational and hungry for debate. The men
around her sigh, tell her everything she’s said is wrong, and explain
how things really are. But it’s clear that they have great respect for
her, and it shows in her flashing eyes that she’s never going to let
them be right. At the same table sit two women, 30 years younger,
struck dumb. One of them’s gripping a napkin like it was a life-buoy.

Preface Hall of Femmes: Paula Scher, 2011
Editor: Maina Arvas

Buy the book here.
Buy the poster here.

Posted by: 06:28

Categories: Books, Maina Arvas, Paula Scher, Preface, Uncategorized

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